A Family’s Two-Week Odyssey in Greece

After trekking around Europe last summer for 5 weeks across 8 countries the ask from the kids was clear: no more than 3 weeks and 1 -2 countries max. This year, Greece was the ticket for several reasons: middle schooler learning about ancient Greece in school, highschooler going into a Trojans mascot high school, 7 year old obsessed with Mamma Mia (and last year we did the Swedish Abba museum), me loving a Mediterranean diet, and most of all – 20 years ago exactly when Brian and I backpacked Europe we didn’t make it to the Greek islands and it was our big regret.  So off I set to plan Greece!

Bonus tip: traveling is so much more fun with other families! Once my itinerary was complete in a spreadsheet, I shared it with friends to see if anyone wanted to meet us along the way for a stint.

First I thought of the family goals: 1. learn about history, 2. eat some amazing food, and 3. relax on some beautiful beaches. Easy peasy!

Getting Around:

Greece offers various transportation options suitable for families. Renting a car provides flexibility, especially for exploring remote areas or island hopping. Note that rental cars can be old and pretty beat up, we were a little surprised by the ricketiness compared to the new rentals in the States. Public transportation, such as buses and trains, is reliable and a budget-friendly option for city travel. Ferries are a great way to travel between islands and offer a unique experience for kids, we booked on Blue Star Ferries directly, but there are multiple options. Ferries can be a bit hectic to board, just be prepared for the massive crowd that boards at once. You can also choose to fly depending on the distance. We flew from Athens to Santorini, but we took Ferries from Santorini to Naxos and Paros. In Athens you should not get a car, it’s easy to get around if you are staying locally. 

Best Time to Visit:

Choosing the right time to visit Greece can significantly enhance your family experience. The ideal months are May to early June and September to October when the weather is comfortably warm, and the major tourist spots are less crowded. This timing ensures a more relaxed pace for your family, perfect for those who prefer to explore without the hustle and bustle of peak tourist season. We were there May-early June and it was quiet from tourists and a comfortable temperature. 

Local Customs and Etiquette:

Understanding Greek customs enhances your travel experience. Greeks are warm and hospitable, especially towards families. It’s common to greet people with a friendly “Kalimera” (good morning) and say thank you “efcharistó”. We always try to learn a few polite phrases in a new country. 

Best Time to Visit:

Choosing the right time to visit Greece can significantly enhance your family experience. The ideal months are May to early June and September to October when the weather is comfortably warm, and the major tourist spots are less crowded. This timing ensures a more relaxed pace for your family, perfect for those who prefer to explore without the hustle and bustle of peak tourist season. We were there May-early June and it was quiet from tourists and a comfortable temperature. 

Recommended Itinerary – 2 Weeks

  • Day 1-3 Athens: A City of Myth and History 
  • Day 4-6 Santorini: A Visual and Sensory Delight
  • Day 7-10 Naxos/Paros: Chill Islands with Quintessential Greek Vibes
  • Day 11-14 Pelloponese: the Unspoiled Historical Gem of Greece 

Greece is not just a singular experience but a mosaic of diverse landscapes, each with its unique charm and story. From the historical grandeur of its cities to the idyllic beauty of its islands, Greece offers a variety of settings that cater to every family’s taste. Let’s embark on a journey through some of Greece’s most captivating regions, beginning with its historic heart – Athens.

  • Day 1-3 Athens: A City of Myth and History 

We like to start with Athens to set the stage for the historical significance. Athens is busy and ancient, a few days are enough before jumping off to your next destination. Anywhere in Greece will have tons of history, but I was also careful to not get over “ruin-ed” haha. I carefully chose the ones of most interest and skipped a lot of other ones. Ideally with an interesting guide to engage us with storytelling. I like to take it easy on our first few days given jet lag. I would do 2-3 days in Athens but don’t over schedule. Here are the highlights I would hit and leave lots of breathing room to acclimate. 

Must dos: 

  • The Acropolis and Parthenon, standing tall and majestic, is not just a monument but a gateway to the past. Start the day early to avoid crowds. The Acropolis is a must-visit, but be prepared for stairs and uneven paths, which is not stroller-friendly.
  • Explore (or ideally stay in) the charming Plaka neighborhood, with its maze of streets perfect for family strolls. Athens also offers numerous parks and green spaces, like the National Garden, providing a serene escape from the city buzz. Lots of food options, I would eat here most meals if you are staying nearby
  • A food, market, or cooking tour. This time we did a cooking class in Athens through the Greek Kitchen Athens and it was fantastic! We went to local markets and made Tzatziki, Dolmades, Eggplant, and Orange pie. 

Bonus:

  • The Acropolis Museum, with its family-friendly exhibits, makes history accessible to children. Our kids didn’t love it, but you could walk through it pretty quickly. I’ve heard the National Archeological Museum is a better option in terms of breadth.
  • An Athens bus tour to hit some highlights without tiring too much
  • The Ancient Agora
  • The Temple of Zeus
  • We did a day trip tour from Athens to Corinth which was important to my mom who is getting her masters in theology. For any Corinthian lovers this is a place of historical significance, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for a family trip otherwise.

Athens- Where to stay

We stayed in the Plaka, it’s walkable with lots of restaurants and old sites, sometimes views of the Acropolis. You can get around easily. Here are some of the final places we would have booked (we chose the first one, but they all look great). Note that Europe the living room is sometimes counted as a bedroom usually if it has a pullout couch. Not my ideal scenario, but works well for a larger family. 

  • Day 4-6 Santorini: A Visual and Sensory Delight

Santorini, famed for its stunning sunsets and unique volcanic landscapes, offers more than just picturesque views. Families can enjoy boat tours exploring the caldera, visiting ancient Akrotiri, or relaxing on a deck with a view. Note that Santorini doesn’t have a lot of actual beaches to play in like the other islands. This island is also a great place to introduce kids to Greek mythology, linked closely to the volcano’s history.

We started day one with this private tour, and it was a great way to get to know the island as an overview. Our guide was kind and super knowledgeable and customized to what our interests were. He also knew how to dodge some of the crowds in Oia, where to park, and he took some great family photos along the way! When you are a larger group, private is the best way because you will easily fill up a van, but get more customization, including extra bathroom and ice cream stops 🙂  

We had a blast on this sunset catamaran boat tour with drinks and BBQ. We also enjoyed several wineries including Santo for the most spectacular view and cheese. For wineries we went based on Google or guide recommendations, but you could also go with a highly rated wine tour like this to take the guesswork out of it.

Santorini was not our favorite– it was far too busy for us and overpriced. Especially Oia. However it is one of those quintessential islands to visit, so it is up to you how much you feel like you would need to visit to complete your Greek islands experience. I think I would have always wondered and needed to go because of that. But if you are comfortable skipping, I would add these days to Naxos or Paros instead. 

Santorini did have the best wineries of our visit. If you go, stay in Imerovigli or Fira– it is not as busy or expensive as Oia, but has a similar view. I would recommend staying in a hotel with a view, that is the true payoff of Santorini is watching the sunsets from your pool deck. Most hotels have pools and even pools in each room, but make sure you’re getting a sunset not the sunrise view. If you chose to stay in Fira it’s busier but has lots of great shopping and restaurants. This location would have been more ideal with kids. We walked the shopping streets for hours, stopping for ice cream and gyros along the way. Unlike many touristy areas, Greek souvenir shops actually have some pretty great clothes and jewelry. 

Amber Light Villas we stayed here, but were quite disappointed that this was a sunrise not a sunset view and it was not near restaurants. But they had a good view, pools in each room, and a good breakfast and bar at their restaurant. This is a good option if you want a quieter resort but still a quick uber away from town.

Xenones Filotera  – another good sunrise option a bit away from the town for a quieter experience. 

Ubers are available, and hotels can book you transportation as well. We had good luck with renting cars for a day or two, they deliver them straight to the hotel or apartment which is unusual and nice. 

  • Day 7-10 Naxos/Paros: Chill Islands with Quintessential Greek Vibes

When you think of Greek Islands and Mamma Mia, Naxos and Paros are it. The grey and white cobblestones with bougainvillea flowering along the white buildings, the stunning blue seas and beautiful quiet beaches. We visited both islands and they were both stunning, though the family verdict was that one of them would have been fine. We loved these islands much more than Santorini because they were quieter, slower paced, less touristy. 

There are hundreds of islands to choose from. Since we were going to Santorini we wanted to stay in the Agean sea, ferrying between the islands. But when we go back we would be interested in trying the Ionian side with Zakynthos as well as Crete. Crete is a giant island and an experience on its own. Our other option was to charter a yacht, which is surprisingly affordable even with a captain and chef. However I was worried about the windy sea and my sea sickness so opted not to- the wind in Greece can be temperamental. But I still think it would be a great trip with maybe some girlfriends in a less windy season! 

Naxos:

If you didn’t do a food experience yet at this point, I would highly recommend one! Whether it’s a cooking class, farm tour, or a food tour, you can learn so much about the culture and food through this lens. Here’s a highly rated one that you can’t go wrong with, but there are many options to choose from. Naxos cheese is incredible and I can’t believe we don’t carry it overseas. Get your fill of the Naxos graviera cheese and be sure to sample several cheeses while in Greece. I’m not a big feta fan, so I was surprised that it’s feta that has made a name for itself as opposed to some of these other Greek varieties.

For places to stay, I would ask yourself if you want to be more remote or within walking distance to a town. If you’re more remote, get a car. But some of the near town locations can have nice perks of being close enough to shops, restaurants, and beaches. In Naxos we stayed at this lovely Villa Alykko. It was out of town, quiet, and on a beach that rarely had anyone on it. I would recommend getting a car, for groceries and shopping, but it’s a great place for folks wanting a quiet life. Kids enjoyed the pool. If you are looking for a town vibe with nightlife and restaurants and shopping, consider staying in Naxos town (Chora) or Plaka.  

This Naxos private tour was fantastic, we really enjoyed getting to know our tour guide. We met local business owners, ate at wonderful family owned restaurants, and drank local liquors. We picked the tour guide’s brain on recommendations and starred all the locations they recommended. It’s a great way to get the lay of the island on day one!

A quick zoom by the Temple of Apollo was enough for some scenic pics. 

We did yoga and massages on each Greek island and it was such a wonderful experience to get to know a local, and they will come to the hotel/apartment. You can easily find someone on Google Maps or Airbnb Experiences.

Paros

Paros has some wonderful options for stays and again consider if you want to be in town or remote, close to beach or close to restaurants. For town I would highly recommend Naoussa or Parikia. I like to check google maps view of the street and map it walking to a beach or a restaurant area. We stayed at a highly rated Sunset Hotel, but it wasn’t as walkable as I assumed from the post. It had a great restaurant and view, but I wished we were closer to the action. 

A wonderful thing about Paros is it’s next to Antiparos, a little island nearby that’s been known for celebrity guests. You can make a day of it and take a ferry to the sleepy island. Or you can take a boat trip that includes Antiparos like this one

  • Day 11-14 Pelloponese: the Unspoiled Historical Gem of Greece 

The Pelloponese is a hidden gem. It’s the peninsula of the mainland, and a historical fairytale land- from the Mycenae to the Olympia to Kalamata, there is a story at every turn. Not many tourists visit here, as they either go to Athens or to the Greek Islands. Mycenae was high on my list after reading some epic tales of Circe, Clytemnestra and Song of Achilles (amazing books to read before visiting or in general!). With a few more days or more Olympics obsessed members we would have made it to Olympia as well. 

The Pelloponese is where we found our very favorite family friendly resort of all time! Recommended by a Greek mom friend, Costa Navarino is the most incredible collection of resorts, with a town center with restaurants and shopping. The rooms were incredible with personal pools in each, the beach is private and stretches for miles, the breakfast was out of this world with fresh honeycomb and greek delights, but what was the best part was the kiddo activities. The waterpark had three mega slides without lines, a bowling alley, a rock climbing wall, a karaoke room, and escape room, and a 50s style diner. There are incredible camps and childcare, our favorite was an official NBA basketball camp with coaches from the European league, and I’ve seen some soccer camps by the leagues advertised as well. Our family cannot say enough about Costa Navarino,  it will always have a special place in our hearts. In fact, whenever booking resorts our kids ask us how it compares to Costa Navarino. It’s a 4 hour drive from Athens, but you can stop along the way in Mycenae to explore ruins, Kalamata to learn about olives. We also noticed it was mostly locals and Italians that seemed to be at the hotel, making it feel very local. You could spend your entire Greek adventure on this peninsula to explore, see more from Rick Steves here

Food Highlights

Impossible to miss, the food in Greece is amazingly fresh, tasty, and mostly healthy. It was a bit of a shock coming back to the states to realize how much packaged food and supplements we rely on foundationally instead of having fresh food. There are fresh pressed juices almost anywhere, and fresh produce is easy to find. Unlike most European countries where I felt like sandwiches were always the go to options, Greece had delicious Souvlaki/kabobs everywhere. The Naxos cheeses are fantastic (maybe because I’m not a big feta fan so my expectations were low, but Greece has so many more cheeses beyond feta!).

My go-to for any country visit is to do a food walking tour out of the gate to have an appreciation through local eyes for the local cuisine. See some recommendations throughout this post.

Breakfast served at most hotels was so yummy with fresh fruit, Greek yogurt, local honey and walnuts. Gyros were a huge hit for the kids – sometimes they even come with fries inside. Most Greek tavernas are family-friendly, often with outdoor seating and a relaxed atmosphere. The adults loved the light Greek wines that left us without headaches, the Ouzo licorice liquor and digestive, Mastika the 2000 year old sweet liquor. 

Safety Notes

Most water is not potable from the sink, so you’ll have to buy bottled water. This is quite shocking as someone who always carries a waterbottle and never buys plastic waterbottles, but there weren’t many eco-friendly options sadly. Second, most toilets cannot handle toilet paper! Eeek. Gross. You’ll see the signs, and will be ever so grateful when you stay in a hotel that is modern enough to handle the plumbing.

Speaking of bathrooms – showers and tile in Greece are incredibly slippery- I’m not sure how there aren’t more warnings about this! Even Athens streets can be quite slippery from the polished stone. Our first night after more than a day of traveling I slipped in the shower and almost ended up in the ER! After that I laid down a towel everywhere water and soap would touch.  

Packing List for Greece:

Packing for a family trip requires careful planning. Essential items include:

  • Comfortable clothing for various weather conditions. Layers and ideally stink resistant soft wool that will let you wear them over and over. This is my favorite merino wool brand, including a dress that I wore for 5 weeks across 10 countries without washing. It’s soft (my skin is sensitive to most wool but this doesn’t feel like wool at all, it’s like a soft tshirt material)
  • Sun protection, including sunscreen, hats, and sunglasses.
  • Sturdy footwear for exploring historic sites and walk on cobblestones.
  • Beach essentials like swimwear, towels, and water shoes.
  • Daypack for carrying snacks, water, and souvenirs. My fave bag that turns into a weekend bag.
  • Entertainment for kids, like travel games or books. This one will sneak up if you don’t keep a watchful eye– I’ve had kids sneak on several big books and stuffies. And of course you’ll end up buying goodies for them there– so I would try to really minimize any kids entertainment. I do enough to be on the plane ride there, like a coloring book, a blank notebook, a tablet/Kindle (we like the Amazon Fire for kids under 10), and headphones. 

See my favorite travel items here that help us go carry on only: including Athens shoes that are one of my favorite shoe brands Kiziks Athens (yes very appropriate)- the easy on and off shoe. 

Conclusion:

Greece is a fantastic destination for families, offering a unique mix of cultural richness, natural beauty, and yummy food. It’s a place where each member of the family can find something to marvel at and enjoy. As you plan your Greek odyssey, savor the preparation. Learning about Greek customs and history is so foundational to our modern society, there’s lots to learn especially for school age kids. Can’t wait to hear how your trip goes!

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